Sorry, it's taking me more time than expected to clean up these travel reports. Also why the hell is it 97 degrees today (real feel 114 and we're actually hotter than towns on the freaking equator!)
Laurie’s redeemed itself with a great breakfast, really tasty eggs benedict and strawberry puree on French toast. I hate to say it but today was a bit of a let down (and I get the idea I’m not the only one who thinks so) Once upon a time the afternoon would have been taken up by whale watching but severe changes in migration patterns and hunting of whales have led that to be a waste of money so it was cut from the tour. They also once went to a ‘scotch’ distiller in the area but were told to stop coming (not enough sales apparently). Well that means there was jack all to do in Cheticamp. The real problem is it’s nearly impossible to get here from PEI in time to do anything but there isn’t THAT much to do. It would be a nice afternoon but to have it for the whole day is now too much time, even leaving an hour later than what was in the book. (I.e., they are aware it’s a problem).
The only real thing we were to see was
Les Trio Pignons , a museum and workshop for a dying artform, rug hooking. The hook rugs from the 80s are kin to this but much rougher. For those not old enough to remember those, you pulled thick short yarn bits through huge burlap holes following a pattern. The original form of it was to use up old burlap bags under high stretch (to open the holes, taking it off the frame lets them close and anchor the threads). Originally in the 1700s you used up old clothes too worn to mend (it was a step up from a braided rug, more artistic) but now they use yarn in a continuous thread. Howeverm the ones in the museum are so amazing that they have shading in them almost a 3-D effect. The ladies would have used sequential dying to achieve that affect. One lady, Elizabeth LeFort, elevated this to such a degree it looks like oil paintings not freaking yarn on burlap. It’s gorgeous stuff. (you can read about her at the link) I almost bought a kit which weren’t too badly priced but a) it looked harder than I think b) my hand wouldn’t have held up (which is sad because I would have liked to try it). Mom is sad I didn’t bring her home one. I really should have.
And honestly this is where I think we should have just gone into the damn national park to our next destination. We did go to shop (omg this whole trip revolves around shopping) while we got the tickets for tomorrows venture into the park. We also stopped at another rug shop (before we went to the park). The guide knows them. I didn’t mind our first stop because it was a museum too. This was just a shop and I was bored and I can only imagine how bored the men were. We did drive out to Cheticamp island to see a light house. It was pretty but that could have taken 10 minutes. I will say it’s picturesque and the houses are small because heating large homes would be too difficult and expensive.
We went to lunch and that was yummy. I had lobster roll and they brought out an apple cake with a homemade caramel sauce they should have just brought to the table in a pot with straws. We also had a fiddler from Ireland providing entertainment and one of the bartenders danced. He was good.
We went from there to Saint Peter’s church, which has a side door into the church…through a crypt. That was interesting. The altar was beautiful. I’m not sure who one of the saints were. I spotted Saint Francis and obviously Peter was center stage (literally bigger than Christ) but there was one up on the side altar who is in Jesuit clothing and looks no lie like Barnabus Collins. I blurted that out and one of my fellow tour members looked up, laughed and said oh my god he does. I asked the singer from last night (who was on the tour this day) but nope she didn’t know either. Wish the Father had been there so I could have asked him. I might see if I can email the priest and ask. It had a cool organ from 1904.
After that, we went to ANOTHER damn gift shop slash ice cream place. Now it was a nice gift shop but I’m shopped out. I did get a sea salt caramel cone and then back to the hotel (dropping people off at the grocery store if they wanted MORE shopping). I tried to do some school work but the internet is impossible so nope, not that.
I went to
Le Gabriel for my splurge dinner, a pound of snow crab fresh from the waters I was looking at all day. It came with a dozen steamed mussels (not on the menu). Those were also from that harbor and SO sweet. It was like kissing the ocean. The crab was amazing then I went to the place’s sports lounge and listened to some Breton musicians, fun stuff before walking back to the hotel. Luckily I missed the giant storm (It was happening while I was listening to the music).
Gulf of Saint Lawrence from my hotel room. It wanted to rain.
LeFort's rugs, this one really shows the sequential dyeing
I liked this one for some reason, it belonged to a ship's captain and the SOS on the side was his ship's name.
Jackie O as a rug
I really can't believe this is a hand drawn, hand hooked rug
Saint Pierre (St Peter)
The crypt (I can't read the inscription)
The altar
Close up of St. Peter.
Not sure who this child throttling saint this is
Tell me this isn't Barnabus Collins? I
think it's supposed to be St Francis Xavier
A view of Cheticamp from Cheticamp Island
YUM
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